Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive list of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always defined its essence: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children are unwilling to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to learn these tales and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
